Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed individuals hiding heroin or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several local vintner. He's organized a informal group of growers who make vintage from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district area and over three thousand vines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help cities remain greener and more diverse. They protect open space from construction by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," says the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten grapes from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Activities Across the City

Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty vines. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see grapevine lines in a city street."

Today, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of vines arranged along the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very on trend, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, the various wild yeasts are released from the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Conditions and Inventive Solutions

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a fence on

Jose Hurst
Jose Hurst

Elara is a seasoned journalist with a passion for uncovering stories that matter, bringing years of experience in digital media and reporting.